Sledging in the Arctic

Dog Sledging in the Arctic

Friday / Saturday

That Friday morning's water source night, I brought my boots in near the fire to dry, so I had toasty warm feet the next morning. Unfortunately, my first job of the day was to fetch water from the river, by dipping a bucket, and I stepped in too deep, so ended up with a soggy foot and a damp foot for the day. Then, as we were setting our dogs on the sledges, my big dog tried to have a go at his neighbour again. I was in no mood for it, so I flipped him onto his back and sat on him, giving him a long, Birch wood.  They cut the trees and then leave the stacks to dry out on the forest. hard stare and some muttered imprecations for good measure. He got such a shock! But he knew he could get his own back. Just as we were about to set off, he casually chewed through the nylon rope of the lead dogs' traces. I was able to grab the traces before they set off anywhere, and to yell out for replacements before Per Thore actually set off. He came back down the line with fresh ropes and asked "Who's the guilty party?" I replied "I think you can guess."

So, this was Friday. We'd been warned on Sunday night that this would be a big day, and Per Thore said on Thursday night that this would be a recap of all we'd done already, with all the kinds of terrain we'd seen already, plus a downhill through trees. We started off easily Heading through the pass out of Jotka enough, out of the valley and back over the tops, a little nervous of what the big downhill was going to be like, but finding ourselves at River and cliff near Jotkajavri ease as we slipped across a snowy, barren landscape. I think many of us were far away – Peter was gesticulating his pleasure, David's feet came off the runners, Cathy turned back to Phil and I to call out that she'd been “miles away” - and her call made me realised that I hadn't been in myself at all either. Edward Wilson said of the Antarctic that “the peace of God which passes all understanding reigns here” and I think we got a glimpse of that then.

Then the sparse silver birch started to gather into a forest and an evergreen appeared – shockingly green in the black and white landscape – and the undulations took on more of a downhill. Per Thore stopped to make sure we were all together, and then we headed off into the trees, braking and swerving, swinging around the route on a logging track. I was focused now, but thinking this wasn't was Here comes the downhill! much of a challenge as I had been expecting. It looked like a tangle up ahead, and I ended up stopping on an upslope of metalled road, so it took all my concentration to keep my dogs in place, looking for a snowy edge to sink my anchor into. The moment they spotted that my attention had strayed, my team started dragging me into a melee that was developing in front of me; but then they all set off, swinging hard left off the logging track and onto a ski track! Now we really were in the woods. I was ducking under branches, and kicking my sledge around corners, braking to stop the sledge running over my team, curving into an uphill and diving down again. As well as keeping on track, I had to try to keep an eye on the sledge in front; there was no attention left for the team behind. We had one stop when someone came off, then we were onward again – and I was in just the place to watch a multi-sledge pile-up. There was a drainage ditch and a hard left onto a wider track, and Jane came off in the ditch. David stopped behind her, near the trees, with Cathy, then Phil then me all halted in line behind. Jane sorted herself out and headed off, David started next, with Cathy's team deciding to go at the same time, slamming David into the trees and hooking the front of her sledge over David's runners. She couldn't pull her sledge Looking back up at the rest of the party.  The doctor is behind me - the single dog is an extra in the middle of her team, as she had five (Sid had seven and Per Thore had nine). backwards and David couldn't move forward for the trees. The two dog teams were all mixed up together too – but Phil came to the rescue. His team was perfectly behaved, so he could drop anchor and go help sort out the mess. By this stage, Per Thore was coming back, so he was standing on the corner as the rest of us came down the hill, telling us to get our foot off the brake. With no sledges to Stop on a tight corner - someone tangled up in front of me obstruct my passage, I sailed over the ditch and around the corner beautifully, and slid to a halt as lunch was declared.

Afterwards, we travelled upriver with a drop off to the river by our right hand side, then across the frozen Alta and a trudge back up out of the narrow valley – but it all felt so easy now, that the end was coming too soon. The last thrill was water skiing. The day had been warm and snowy, the trees dripping, and part of our route along a frozen stream was rather damp, with a couple of centimetres of water on top of the ice. It was a bizarre, delightful feeling to be streaming along “boat fashion” behind the dogs. And then the field where it all started appeared in front of us and we came to a final halt. All my dogs sank to the ground and composed themselves – you'd believe snow wouldn't melt in their mouths. They knew their Water skiiing on the way into Gargia week was done, and that there was no more point in competing with this particular human for top of the team. And so we unhooked all the dogs for a last time, and gave them a thank you pat for all their work. BBC David chose this moment to interview David, so it was a bit of a struggle to get everyone back together for a final team A little more water skiing photo – which naturally turned into a snowball fight when BBC David, filming, said “do something”. Sid said the hot tub would be going, so we gathered our gear and room keys and stripped out of the doggy clothes, and into the shower to rinse off days of dogs and sweat. David and I rushed off to the hot tub, which was outside in the snow, and ended up being joined by six others, so that I think there was more human than water in the tub. And the people were at least as bubbly as the water, too, full of chatter about what we'd done and seen.

There were enough clean clothes left at Gargia that all the dog-smelling stuff could be assigned to a sealed bag – and boy did that bag stink once my nose had got used to the absence of dog-smell! However, it did mean that when we went off to tour Alta's biggest tourist attraction – the Igloo Hotel – that evening, I was cold. It was OK outside, but cold once we went in. They have a bar, chapel and bedrooms and do most of their business in weddings. It was a mighty strange place – I can't imagine wanting to spend a night sleeping in a block of ice. They provide sleeping bags, and there is a mattress and reindeer skin on top of the cube of ice which is the bed, but there is a separate wooden building where you dine and change for bed – no en suite here. They do have shot glasses made Sculpture at the Alta Igloo Hotel of ice, which is a clever gimmick, and lots of ice sculptures about the place which last until the spring, but it was higher on curiosity value than anything else. The ride in the minibus was strange, as I was sitting behind the driver and my mental impulse was to kick out the sledge as we came to curves, and to manage my speed with the foot brake. It was quite strange to discover how far into my mind the Moose!  We saw two live ones by the road on the way to the igloo hotel sledge driving skills had soaked.

Back at Gargia, we had a final dinner, where Sid told us all what a good group we'd been. He seemed genuinely impressed at our consistent ability to be ready to go at the assigned time in the mornings, and in our overall performance. I suspect that we had no slackers in the team because Friends of SPRI made sure people knew what they were getting into before they signed up – from talking to Sid, it seems that a lot of charities get people's name in the frame before they've really committed to the fitness requirements. After Sid, David said a few words about fSPRI – since half the group were in it for the sledging and didn't know much about where the money was going – and thanked us for our effort. Finally, our youngest team member got up and thanked “the staff”. The Staff - Sid, Kirstie (the doctor) and Per Thore

On Saturday morning, more than half the group went off to have a go on skidoos themselves. Most of the rest seemed to spend time with the dogs, whilst David and I ended up “at leisure”. We had wanted to go into Alta to see if we could find interesting birds in the harbour, but the cost of a taxi was prohibitive, so we ended up going for a little walk and, dodging the snow-clearance truck, we realised there were bird feeders on some of the houses towards the main part of Gargia. We found Arctic Redpoll – a lifer – and Willow Tit, a familiar bird from Britain which we could mentally compare with the Siberian Tit and feel even more confident of our ID. (We had skipped Skidooers on Saturday morning at Gargia on the bird book, as it was 800 grams, and only had one pair of binoculars between us). Then it was a bus into the airport, which was right on the harbour. We spotted a raft of gulls and ducks a few minutes before the airport, but couldn't get any good ideas as we zoomed by – though we were happy with a lifer on the Glaucous Gulls flying about. After check-in we still had two hours before the flight, so David had the bright idea of getting a taxi from here. The nice security guard even called one for us, though we ended up with a driver who didn't speak a great deal of English. Nevertheless, she was happy to drive Alastair, David and me to a car park by the sea where we all shared the binoculars and managed another lifer – Iceland Gull. Long Tailed Duck was a good addition too, and a couple of commoner species made the trip list up to 14!

Then it was back to the airport and time to head for home.