Sledging in the Arctic

Dog Sledging in the Arctic

Tuesday

David, shit-picking on Tuesday morning - Suolovuopmi Judy packing her sledge, Tuesday morning Suolovuopmi
After a snore-filled night and porridge we were ready to set off again. The lodge had a bird table out, but the only birds we could find were house sparrows. Once we were about ready to go, Per Thore walked the line, checking how were were doing – and I discovered that the “cute behaviour” where one of my front dogs stood over the other one was actually misbehaviour, and that I shouldn't be letting her do that. “Baloo is what I call a real bitch,” he told me. He also muttered something about my big dog, whose bloodshot eye was clearing up nicely. Then, as each morning, as he stalked back down the line to his sledge to lead us off, all the dogs leapt to their feet and started howling and barking. Everything we “clients” did was just mucking about as far as they were concerned, but when Per Thore took to his sledge, we were really off!
Rocky and Rambo - Judy's back pair - at Suolovuopmi Judy's team - Suolovuopmi
More of that so-called cute behaviour, Suolovuopmi. My team - with what I thought was the cute behaviour of the lead dogs, Suolovuopmi

My team (and me) receiving instruction from Per Thore, Suolovuopmi We'd been warned that we had a difficult start, with a 90 degree turn which went down a hill, but we all negotiated that, only to fall about later. Someone had a difficulty shortly afterwards, and I ended up stopped on a downhill slope just ahead of a reverse cambered curve, and wasn't quite in control of my sledge when the big dog yanked forward and set us going. I managed to get on and hang on, but the outward swing of the sledge dislodged me and the whole thing crashed over and almost into the trees on the side. I bounced and lost my grip on the sledge, breaking the first rule. Without me on the back, the sledge righted itself and the dogs kept on going. I was more shocked that I'd let go than that I'd fallen off, and leapt up to give chase, yelling out so that those in front could slow it down, or take evasive action. Fortunately, the snow was quite firm and the way was narrow, so the dogs couldn't really get away but I wasn't quite quick enough to stop the sledge banging into the driver in front. The dogs seemed to have enjoyed their escapade more than I did, but we were soon moving again.

Snowy forest between Suolovuopmi and Maze. Snowy forest between Suolovuopmi and Maze The tops, between Suolovuopmi and Maze

After lunch I went off again, at the start of one of our more difficult sections. We got into close formation to cross a major road as a single group, and then set off, but, with a big rise to get onto the road, my sledge went over again. This time, I hung on, and the dogs stopped but, not wanting to end up in the middle of traffic, I hauled the sledge up and set them going again in no time. (My good recovery was even picked out in the briefing that evening.) However, on the other side, we were skidding over a thin layer of snow on a bitumen The road behind, between Suolovuopmi and Maze road, which meant the foot brake just couldn't dig in, and there was a serious descent around a corner. Fortunately this road was wide enough to accommodate several sledges abreast, as few of us could get our dogs to stop. Then just as we straightened out into single file again, we found ourselves going down the main street – at least, there was a Post Office, though not any other traffic. On the further outskirts of town, there was a farm with reindeer and loose dogs, which came near to causing chaos as a sledge load of dogs diverted towards each.

As the town signs had said Maze (pronounced Marzeh) and the itinerary had said we were going to Maze, I started to think the day was nearly done, so the last five klicks were most tiresome. I was also last (except for Sid) due to the near-pile up as we entered town, so when we got to our camp for the night, I had a fair while to wait before I Waiting to get our dogs onto the stake-outs at Maze - note the sauna on the right and the cabin at the top of the hill could get my dogs onto their stake-out. With the snow soft, the anchor wasn't all that reliable, so I had to stay on the foot brake, but my dogs were mostly behaving themselves, at least. Some of the others had quiet enough dogs that they could wander off and chat, so I was the nearest when the team in front of me started fighting. I raced off to stop them, and twanged a hamstring in the soft snow, only to then be nearly run over by my own sledge, as the hounds had spotted their moment. Grrr! When I finally got a spot to park my dogs, the two at the back started fighting whilst I was taking them in and I got shouted at for not hitting them hard enough, so I was pretty irritable even before I discovered that there was a snowy 45 degree slope up to the lodge, where there was no running water and, as I was last, I'd been left with a lounge to sleep on. Fortunately, one of the early arrivals had put a kettle on, and I started to feel a bit more human after a cup of tea, even if it was black Earl Grey. Then the doctor, who had been given a two-bunk room to herself, found a mattress and let David and I have her bunk room. This was a lovely holiday house in the country, with the girls in one bunk room upstairs and the boys in the other, a big lounge with a fire, and a kitchen either side of the entry hall, with a couple of two-bunk rooms beyond that. That left hand kitchen was made the managers' office, and as David was considered the fSPRI rep, he was part of their pre-briefing briefings each night. David in the cabin at Maze

So, with a prospect of a proper bed, I went back down the slope to help with fetching water, to discover I was too late to help drill the lake, and back up again after filling a few water bottles. My team Judy and Rie in their bunkroom at Maze was meant to be on dinner that night, but one of the others had banged her knee quite badly and wanted a swap, so I ended up back on dog feeding duty. It was almost a pleasant task that evening, as the others in that group had a real team spirit, and made sure that we each fed our own dogs personally. Alastair had already had the duty of setting up the sauna, which was by the lake, and half way through the doggy dinners, he was called away by the girls to help them, as they'd let the fire go out! Full moon was replacing sunset, on a quiet still evening as we packed the dishes away, and the dogs all started howling, crooning together as they usually did just after feeding time. I'm not fond of noisy dogs at home, but in this setting it was just magical.

Whilst we were busy with the dogs, there had been a change of shift in the sauna so, rather than trudging up the hill for my togs, I stripped off my smelly gear and hopped straight in. Alastair had got the room steaming up nicely again, and once we were all warmed through the topic of rolling in the snow inevitably came up. We'd seen the girls rushing out across the lake and knew we couldn't let the side down – and anyway, how often does this kind of chance come up? The snow on our bare feet was horrendous, and the others were about to dive into the first flat snow – not being able to see that this was where we'd been feeding the dogs! A quick roll in the snow, a very brief snowball fight, and we were all back in the warm, holding our feet up to the fire, before using some of the warmed water for a wash. It turns out the women had put on their boots, which was why they'd run further than we had – but they'd also found thinner snow and crunched into the ice of the lake surface.

View from the lady's bunk room at Maze Panorama from outside the cabin at Maze
Sunset panorama from outside the cabin at Maze Dogs and full moon after their dinner, Maze

After dinner that night, the doctor came rushing in to say the Northern Lights were brilliant. There was an instant pile-up in the hall as we all tried to find our boots, but we were too slow as they had disappeared again. Even so, by the time of the briefing, everyone seemed to have got past the first day difficulties and we were all enjoying the trip. Later, the breakfast crew went down to the lake to collect water whilst a few of us stood in quiet contemplation of the sky. There was the occasional streak and glow, but not much more by the time we turned in some time after 10pm. I wasn't too disappointed as I knew my bladder would give me another sky-viewing opportunity later in the night. In fact, since there was supposed to be a lunar eclipse that night, I thought I might have a double chance. I think I went out again at 00:30, but I didn't see the eclipse. There was some cloud in the sky, so perhaps I just didn't notice, being a penumbral eclipse and me being more asleep than awake. However, there was a great yellowy-green curtain hanging from the sky, possibly moving, though it was hard to tell. Nervous that it would disappear again, I went back in after a couple of minutes to wake David. This turned out to be a big mistake, as David wasn't wakeable and I was seduced by the warmth and my exhaustion and crawled back into bed. Not staying outside longer that night was my only regret of the week, but I still got a decent view of the Lights.